When you think of Italy, most people probably don’t consider the coastal city of Trieste, but you should! This vibrant port city is a short 2-hour train ride from Venice along the eastern coast, making it a great jumping off spot for other areas like Croatia and Slovenia.
Trieste is similar to Venice in that it has a Grand Canal, a perfect place for sipping a spritz or enjoying an evening dinner. Our evening by the canal included a wonderful dinner and (of course) drinks and craft beer at Spiller. This is a European microbrewery chain, so it still fits our definition of “drink local.” The food is better than we expected and the drink selection is extensive. Not to be outdone by a liter of beer, you can also order a liter of wine!
The patio scene is the real star in Trieste … partly because we found many bars are not air conditioned inside! Some of the busiest ones we spotted included Super Bar Stella. We also enjoyed an aperitif and cicchetti at Tergesteo CityBar near the opera theater.
There are a number of true craft cocktail bars in Trieste. Mast is the one we visited – it has a relaxing patio space along an alley with a fun indoor area that includes swings. Yes, the kind you had in your backyard, but at the bar. They served up a tasty classic Negroni! It’s also next door to the 2-star Michelin restaurant Harry’s Piccolo, which is an experience in itself.
You may not be aware, but Trieste has connections to Irish novelist James Joyce. He lived here for 16 years and wrote some of his popular works while enjoying the Adriatic air. There’s a statue in his honor on a canal bridge. And of course, a bar with his name. Café James Joyce is a lively little spot on a busy street. It’s a lovely place for a spritz, wine or cocktail. You could even bring a notebook and write a novel or two. Like many bars in Trieste, it’s also open early morning for coffee.
Trieste is full of historic charm. The cocktail bars are no exception. Antico Caffe Torinese has been around since the early 1900’s serving up fantastic cocktails in the evening and coffee in the morning. We had an excellent Old Fashioned here and enjoyed the ambiance.
Like many European cities we’ve visited, Trieste also has a castle on the hilltop that makes a perfect backdrop for an Italian sunset. Conveniently, the castle also has a wine bar for some added magic. We enjoyed our sunset evening with wine and spritz at Bastione at Castello San Giusto. There was also a live jazz quartet, as if it wasn’t magical enough!
Trieste is one of those cities that took us by surprise and there are lots of places left to visit here, so we’ll have to plan a return trip!









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